What is the best benchtop jointer in 2021? What is the best jointer? [Benchtop vs. stationary]

Flattening faces and squaring the edges of oversized, warped, rough lumber? Talk about blessing for any woodworker! The truth is simple. The initial investment required to buy a jointer allows you to save money on lumber for years to come.

I bought a benchtop jointer because I have a small shop and I like to park my cars inside my garage. Who would think that right? A 6-inch jointer makes sense for 90% of my woodworking.

When I bought my jointer, I didn’t have a guide like this. This is why I chose to write one. My guide compares all benchtop jointers and even a basic floor jointer. This way, you can take an informed decision about what works best on your workshop.

The Best Jointers are…

     

Are bench top jointers worth it?

The initial costs for the convenience of owning tools sound expensive. This is what you trade when you choose to build using home center S4S instead of milling your own wood at home.

Wood magazine did an interesting math using a blanket chest project a few years ago. S4S wood costs between 50% and 100% more when compared to rough sawn stock. So, they chose their blanket chest project and a few wood species. This helped them determine how many chests you’d have to build to save enough money to get a “free” jointer AND a planer, both new. The math was simple and based on two shopping lists:

• Home center
  • 8 pc 1x6x72",
  • 1 pc 1x3x48", and
  • 4 pc 1x6x48"
• Lumberyard
  • 41 board feet rough-sawn, which accounted for 25% waste during the milling process.

Their results were more than clear:

• if you used red oak you only needed to build 5 chests to get your "free" machines;
• using maple you needed to build 6 chests for your "freebies"; and
• 16 chests if you used pine.

The numbers don’t lie and the savings are immense. One batch of Christmas presents for your family. That’s all it takes to earn “free” tools from lumber savings.

Any other savings afterwards is cash towards new tool purchases. This way you can tackle even bigger, more complex projects.

 

Porter-Cable PC160JT review - Best benchtop jointer for hobbist under $500

The Porter-Cable jointer is a favorite among hobby woodworkers. The main difference from the rest of the market is its speed control feature for the lumber you are cutting, resulting in smoother surfaces and less wasted time on sanding afterwards.

Weighing 40 lbs, this unit is one of the lightest units reviewed today. It’s light enough for being placed in different parts of your small shop as you see fit. Storing it once you have finished using it is easier on your back.

The main problem with this machine is that you will need to spend extra time on your initial table setup. The fence isn’t also super sturdy.

If you are patient when you first get the machine and can live with the fence, you might end up a happy customer.

This machine has a lower price point and it does show in the aluminum fence, which is not the end of the world by itself. The main issue is its fence adjustment system, which needs re-squaring every time you adjust it. It’s a design issue and there isn’t much to be done about it.

The 4-inch dust port is bigger on this unit, compared with 2-1/2 inches in most other benchtop jointers.

The Porter-Cable PC160JT is the one I find best. It is the cheapest benchtop jointer on this group, and also one of the lowest prices available on the market today. Do not be discouraged by its flaws. It can very well be your entry into working with rough lumber and saving money on each lumber purchase. Both advanced and beginner woodworkers will get excellent value for their money with its variable speed feature. This is the best benchtop jointer under $500. Click here for more details.

Wahuda 50180CC-WHD review (prev. Cutech 40180H-CT 8-inch bench jointer with spiral cutterhead)

The Wahuda 50180CC-WHD is a very good benchtop jointer. Wahuda used to be called Cutech (standing for “Cutterhead Technology”). In spite of the weird new brand, Wahuda Tools is a company from Memphis, TN. They still serve Cutech warranties, which says a lot about them.

The 4-sided carbide inserts give it a higher price than other models. The inserts also give a smoother finish than cutting knives, meaning less sanding “fun” times for you. Not bad, huh? Another reason why this unit costs more is the width: 8 inches here versus 6 inches on the other machines. So you can work on wider lumber each time.

Another important difference is the table length: the 50180CC-WHD offers 33-1/2 inches, extendable to 51 inches of total length. By the way, the extendable tables is an exclusive feature of this Wahuda jointer. The 50180CC-WHD allows you to joint longer and wider stock, so your shop time tends to be more productive.

My greatest issue is the price. For a little more, you can get the Grizzly G0813, which is stationary (and heavier and more stable and with a more powerful motor). On the other hand, the Wahuda gives you a helical cutterhead with carbide inserts (and smoother cuts), and 33% extra width to work with. Who said life was easy? The Wahuda is the best benchtop jointer with a spiral cutterhead. Click here for info and updated prices.

Jet JJP-8BT 8-inch jointer-planer combo review

This Jet model is the only benchtop jointer planer combo on the market. In other words, buying this machine gives you double functionality for a similar price point of all the other machines available in the market.

If you watch YouTube videos from European makers, you will probably have seen similar machines in their tighter woodshops. Most of these machines have similar designs, where some simple dust port adjustments allow you to switch between jointer and planer in under a minute.

This is a basic machine. Its main differential from other competitors is having all the functionality you need for jointing and planning lumber to your needs using half as much space. It is one of the best choices for small workshops with tighter budgets because it allows you to be fully functional from day one. The Jet benchtop jointer-planer combo is great for small shops. Click here for info and prices.

Delta 37-071 review

This Delta benchtop jointer certainly offers you stability. At 76 lbs, this is one of the heaviest machines reviewed here today, so it’s unlikely this unit will move around while you are jointing board on it. The weight also helps reduce machine vibration.

Part of the weight is due to its cast iron construction, much more solid, stable, and durable than the aluminum that you often see in this category.

As with most benchtop models, this jointer uses straight knives. It’s not a deal breaker because the lower price reflects that, however you need to be aware that finishing your boards will likely take longer, since straight knives mark the lumber a bit more than spiral cutterheads.

Swapping the knives is simple due to its jackscrew arrangement.

The fence needs some time to be setup. Once you get it there, though, it is very stable and precise.

The built-in dust blower takes care of most wood shavings, however you will be better off by hooking it up to your dust collection system to avoid clogging the dust chute.

The Delta 37-071 jointer is a great choice for the hobby woodworker who wants a substantial machine for a reasonable price. The cast iron construction benefits certainly make a good cause for this unit. Click here for info and prices on the Delta.

Powertec BJ600 review

The Powertec jointer has many similar features to the above Delta 37-071, namely cast iron construction (including the fence, unlike other benchtop machines) resulting in bulky weight, less machine vibration, more solidity, stability, and durability.

This machine will not move while you are jointing lumber! They could be a good entrance model if you do woodworking as a hobby. The dust collection bag captures wood shavings, which could be convenient is you don’t have a dust collection system in your shop.

The Powertec is much cheaper than the Delta. But there’s a catch.

Adjusting the infeed and the outfeed tables in the Powertec demands some tinkering, which is not described in the user’s manual. You will also need a pair of 6-inch Allen wrenches in 3 and 5 mm, which are not shipped with this machine. The screws are easy to find under the machine, so accessibility isn’t an issue.

Oddly, not all machines have these issues, so it looks like a quality control issue more than anything. Take that as you will.

If you are patient enough to sort these issues with the Powertec, you can count on having a dependable workhorse in your home woodshop for a fraction of the price of the Delta. Click here to see prices for the Powertec BJ600.

Wen 6560 6-inch benchtop jointer review

This Wen 6560 is an honest hobby benchtop jointer, plus it is one of the cheapest benchtop jointers currently available at the market. As per user reviews, the fence adjustment is the main negative side of this unit.

My main issue with the Wen is that it’s just so… average. While it is one of the cheapest currently for sale, and all its specs are on par with the competition, I have a hard time recommending this Wen jointer to anyone.

Get a Porter-Cable with variable speed control or a Powertec BJ600 with a dust bag, they cost around the same but offer something extra for your money.

What does a jointer do?

Contrary to its name, a jointer doesn’t make joints; it planes the edges of boards. Don’t confuse it with a thickness planer, which dimensions rough lumber to exact thickness, but doesn’t do much else.

The jointer is more versatile. It’s designed for accurate edge-planing of boards you’re gluing together into larger boards such as for cabinets or table-tops, but you’ll also use it to:

• straighten one edge of a curved board so it follows the table saw fence as you cut it to width;
• remove saw marks on the edges of a board cut on the table saw;
• flatten warped board faces;
• smooth edges of plywood, particle-board and Plexiglas;
• micro-plane cabinet door edges to get an exact fit;
• bevel door and board edges;
• clean up glue joints on laminated boards for lathe turning; and
• trim fractions of stock from door or window molding when remodeling.

How does a jointer work?

The jointer’s cutter head spins between a two-part infeed-outfeed table. The tips of the blades in the cutter head are set level with the stationary outfeed table surface.

As the board passes through the blades, its just-planed edge rides across the outfeed table.

The infeed table adjusts up and down to determine the depth of cut; the fence positions the board at a preset angle to the jointer table and cutter head.

A jointer with its infeed table set at 1/32 in. will remove 1/32 in. all along a flat board edge. The new edge will be the same angle to the board face as the fence is to the jointer bed.

Benchtop jointer vs stationary tool

I do woodworking as a hobby and I want to take it up a notch. I recently decided my next tool purchase will be a jointer. My main issue is dealing with a very small shop, so I want something compact.

A benchtop jointer is great for beginner or hobbyist woodworkers. Even for professionals in smaller shops. If your woodworking consists of smaller to medium items, you can rely on 6- or 8-inch jointers. They will accurately true smaller or shorter stock, say up to 4 feet or so.

Benchtop jointers are faster than hand planing. They are much simpler than setting up jigs to process rough lumber on your router table or table saw.

They are also cheaper than buying S4S lumber (all faces and edges smooth). Jointers give you more flexibility in species, lumber dimensions, and even wood figure. Keep on reading as I expand these arguments in my article.

Unexpected benefits of working with rough lumber

Working with rough lumber gives you so much versatility.

First of all, it allows you to use other wood species. Beginners tend to use only the lumber selection available at their local home center.

Second, the home center also limits you in lumber thickness and project dimensions. So you can’t design a project with good proportions.

Third, you will be able to work with different wood figures and grain and incorporate those in your design. This unlocks extra possibilities for your woodworking skills and projects. Other than joinery techniques, the wood itself will add beauty to your work.

You can go to different places to find cheaper or free lumber for milling. You can go to lumberyards and getting to know experienced people who can teach you more about wood. You can search for rough lumber ads on eBay. You can even posting ads on Craigslist for searching fallen trees and mill them yourself.

Alternatives for owning a benchtop jointer

You can buy a bigger machine, you can joint boards by hand, or you can buy pre-surfaced boards. Two of these make you spend more money, and two of these make you spend more time.

1. Buying a bigger machine will give you extra capacity, a bigger motor, and more stability. A stationary jointer also costs you more.
2. Jointing boards by hand gives you, well, nice wood shavings... Right? It's also a time-consuming method. A power tool gives more accurate, much faster results. Unless you are allergic to electricity, it doesn't make much sense to rely on hand planing in place of a jointer.
3. Buying S4S pre-surfaced boards is the worst of both worlds. After you leave them to acclimate to your shop's humidity and temperature, your lumber is no longer flat. You pay more for the pre-surfaced lumber convenience, but then you need to re-surface them again. The only warranty you have when buying S4S is that you spend more money. You will have to mill your stock at your shop because the boards will still be not perfect.

How to choose a jointer (buying guide)

Table width = cutting capacity

This measurement is the maximum lumber width the jointer can handle.

• 6 inches: this is the smallest jointer you can buy and it fits most budgets. It is best suited for hobby woodworkers and some contractors too, due to its portability.
• 8 inches: moving up a step in size, 8” jointers give you more flexibility because you can joint wider boards, and in general also allow you to work with longer lumber because they have longer tables and are heavier, more stable machines.
• 16 inches: these are professional work platforms, suited for large, industrial workshops that need it for daily use.

Infeed and outfeed table length

As a rule of thumb, you can comfortably handle wood that is twice as long as the jointer’s table length. You can buy of make table extensions for occasional work with longer lumber.

Tip: Table alignment is one of the two most important things for accurate and dependable results.

Adjustable fence

Most fences can be set with positive stops at 45°, 90°, and 135°, and also any angle in between. The vast majority of your jointing, though, will happen at 90°.

Tip: An accurate fence is the other vital element for ensuring accurate work results, and you ensure it with proper fence control.

Cutting depth

The smaller this figure is, the more passes you will need to make in order to straighten your lumber.

In other words, this is what defines your work efficiency.

Motor

Most motors use standard 110v, single phase outlets.

Some jointers, however, allow rewiring to 220v, single-phase.

Dust collection

Do not underestimate the amount of dust and wood shavings jointers make during operation.

I strongly believe that keeping a clean shop means keeping a safe shop. Make sure your chosen jointer is compatible with your current dust management system.

Dimensions and weight

Only you can answer these questions based on your own needs and circumstances.

• How much space do you have available in your shop?
• Can you buy a jointer with a fixed base?
• Would you rather build your own cabinet and use that as storage space?

Cutterhead type

• Straight Knives: this is the most common cutter type. The cutters spin on a vertical axis along the jointer width and are usually made of solid steel.
• Spiral Knives: spiral designs are more advanced in terms of technology. Here the knives spin as they cut into the wood. This design allows for (relatively) more silent operation, as well as less blade sharpening. Wood shavings are smaller too.
• Spiral Inserts: lately, some manufacturers such as Wahuda offer a spiral design version where they place several inserts – usually 12 inserts for 6-inch benchtop planers to 16 inserts for 8-inch models.

Why are helical cutters BETTER than straight knives?

• MUCH lower noise levels - think garbage disposal (80 dB) versus lawn mower (90 dB)
• Carbide cutters stay sharp for a longer time, saving downtime and sharpening costs
• Possibility to rotate or change just the damaged cutters instead of changing the entire knife
• Smaller wood chips versus the long wood shavings produced by straight knives (especially soft woods). They clog up dust collection more often

Number of knives/inserts and cuts per minute (CPM)

Simply put, the more knives/inserts a machine has, the more cuts per minute it will make, and the smoother the end result will be.

On the other hand, the higher cuts per minute figures also tend to result in a higher need for re-sharpening the jointer knives.

Jointer vs. thickness planer

Both machines operate in similar ways to remove material, creating straight and smooth surfaces, however they perform different operations.

• A jointer will first straighten one face and one edge, while also making them square to each other. This is the most important difference to the jointer because it creates the initial references on your stock.
• A thickness planer is used afterwards to make the opposite face and edge parallel with the previous surfaces, thus finishing to square your lumber. You can also use it for creating uniform thickness in all your lumber before moving on with your project, which is an added convenience.

Ideally you should own both machines. In real life, they both cost money, which is a finite resource.

If you are in doubt of which purchase you should prioritize, absolutely go for jointers first because their ability to square stock is much more important than the convenience of having wood planed to a consistent thickness.

Also consider that some manufacturers offer the convenience of combination machines for jointing and planing stock. This is always an interesting choice for smaller shops and tighter budgets.

How to use a jointer?

Tips for operating a jointer

Benchtop jointers are precision tools only as precise as their operator. Keep in mind:

• A row of set screws holds each blade in the cutter head. Check them regularly for tightness with an Allen wrench.
• Set the cutting depth at 1/16 in. or less on the inked table before turning on the jointer. If you're planing hardwood, experiment with even shallower cuts to get a smoother board edge and to reduce blade wear and tear.
• To joint a board edge, grip the board in both hands and push it toward the cutter head, keeping firm pressure downward on the infeed table and sideways along the fence. Cut with the grain when possible, but the jointer smoothly trims edges when cutting against the grain if you don't rush the cut. Maintain an even feed rate. Don't stop the cut partway through or you'll create "divots" along the cut. When finishing the cut, keep pressure steady on the end of the board to keep it firmly on the outfeed table.
• When jointing shorter boards (3 to 4 ft. long) keep your hands in the same position throughout the cut. Longer boards require repositioning your hands to keep pressure consistently downward and against the fence.
• Don't joint boards shorter than 12 in. long. Joint longer boards and cut them to length later.
• Reposition the fence frequently when jointing boards to distribute wear on the blades.
• To straighten a curved edge, joint several inches from one end, then, as you hear the blades losing contact with the cupped edge, lift the board and joint the other end. After a few rotations, the curve will be removed.

Safety tips for jointing stock

• Jointers may seem harmless because it runs quietly, but be careful. Never remove the swiveling blade guard. Always use it. No excuses allowed here.
• Jointing stock with knots or other defects increases your chances of accidents.
• Keep your fingers away from the revolving cutter head.
• Always joint with the grain.
• Don't attempt to surface pieces shorter that 12 inches.
• The maximum depth of cut should be 1/8 inch.
• Always use a push block when surface jointing or jointing a thin piece of stock.
• Always stand to the left of the machine and behind the cutter head.
• Make sure stock is always held firmly against the fence.
• Check the machine to ensure all parts are securely tightened.
• Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
• Don't wear loose clothing. Roll up long sleeves and keep shirt tails tucked in.

Checking your jointer results

Place two boards you’ve jointed edge-to-edge. When jointers work right, they cut straight, 90-degree edges. These edges match perfectly with other jointed boards.

If it’s not working right, there will be gaps. Two adjustments might be necessary:

• Set the fence to 90 degrees with a small square, being sure to check the fence all along its face.
• Hold a straightedge firmly on the out-feed table to make sure the tables are parallel. If not, the outfeed table needs adjustment. Many jointers have "gibs" (adjustment screws) at the base of the outfeed table for leveling purposes. After adjusting, recheck the beds with the straightedge.

Don’t fret if the jointer’s beds go slightly out of level with use. Simply take the time to check and adjust them. Don’t leave heavy boards or tools lying on the tables because it’ll encourage their misalignment

Sources

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer
• https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157045-S4S-Wood-vs-Self-Planed-amp-Jointed/page2
• https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/39274
• https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/67js6v/good_benchtop_jointers/

Flattening faces and squaring the edges of oversized, warped, rough lumber? Talk about blessing for any woodworker! The truth is simple. The initial investment required to buy a jointer allows you to save money on lumber for years to come.

I bought a benchtop jointer because I have a small shop and I like to park my cars inside my garage. Who would think that right? A 6-inch jointer makes sense for 90% of my woodworking.

When I bought my jointer, I didn’t have a guide like this. This is why I chose to write one. My guide compares all benchtop jointers and even a basic floor jointer. This way, you can take an informed decision about what works best on your workshop.

The Best Jointers are…

     

Are bench top jointers worth it?

The initial costs for the convenience of owning tools sound expensive. This is what you trade when you choose to build using home center S4S instead of milling your own wood at home.

Wood magazine did an interesting math using a blanket chest project a few years ago. S4S wood costs between 50% and 100% more when compared to rough sawn stock. So, they chose their blanket chest project and a few wood species. This helped them determine how many chests you’d have to build to save enough money to get a “free” jointer AND a planer, both new. The math was simple and based on two shopping lists:

• Home center
  • 8 pc 1x6x72",
  • 1 pc 1x3x48", and
  • 4 pc 1x6x48"
• Lumberyard
  • 41 board feet rough-sawn, which accounted for 25% waste during the milling process.

Their results were more than clear:

• if you used red oak you only needed to build 5 chests to get your "free" machines;
• using maple you needed to build 6 chests for your "freebies"; and
• 16 chests if you used pine.

The numbers don’t lie and the savings are immense. One batch of Christmas presents for your family. That’s all it takes to earn “free” tools from lumber savings.

Any other savings afterwards is cash towards new tool purchases. This way you can tackle even bigger, more complex projects.

 

Porter-Cable PC160JT review - Best benchtop jointer for hobbist under $500

The Porter-Cable jointer is a favorite among hobby woodworkers. The main difference from the rest of the market is its speed control feature for the lumber you are cutting, resulting in smoother surfaces and less wasted time on sanding afterwards.

Weighing 40 lbs, this unit is one of the lightest units reviewed today. It’s light enough for being placed in different parts of your small shop as you see fit. Storing it once you have finished using it is easier on your back.

The main problem with this machine is that you will need to spend extra time on your initial table setup. The fence isn’t also super sturdy.

If you are patient when you first get the machine and can live with the fence, you might end up a happy customer.

This machine has a lower price point and it does show in the aluminum fence, which is not the end of the world by itself. The main issue is its fence adjustment system, which needs re-squaring every time you adjust it. It’s a design issue and there isn’t much to be done about it.

The 4-inch dust port is bigger on this unit, compared with 2-1/2 inches in most other benchtop jointers.

The Porter-Cable PC160JT is the one I find best. It is the cheapest benchtop jointer on this group, and also one of the lowest prices available on the market today. Do not be discouraged by its flaws. It can very well be your entry into working with rough lumber and saving money on each lumber purchase. Both advanced and beginner woodworkers will get excellent value for their money with its variable speed feature. This is the best benchtop jointer under $500. Click here for more details.

Wahuda 50180CC-WHD review (prev. Cutech 40180H-CT 8-inch bench jointer with spiral cutterhead)

The Wahuda 50180CC-WHD is a very good benchtop jointer. Wahuda used to be called Cutech (standing for “Cutterhead Technology”). In spite of the weird new brand, Wahuda Tools is a company from Memphis, TN. They still serve Cutech warranties, which says a lot about them.

The 4-sided carbide inserts give it a higher price than other models. The inserts also give a smoother finish than cutting knives, meaning less sanding “fun” times for you. Not bad, huh? Another reason why this unit costs more is the width: 8 inches here versus 6 inches on the other machines. So you can work on wider lumber each time.

Another important difference is the table length: the 50180CC-WHD offers 33-1/2 inches, extendable to 51 inches of total length. By the way, the extendable tables is an exclusive feature of this Wahuda jointer. The 50180CC-WHD allows you to joint longer and wider stock, so your shop time tends to be more productive.

My greatest issue is the price. For a little more, you can get the Grizzly G0813, which is stationary (and heavier and more stable and with a more powerful motor). On the other hand, the Wahuda gives you a helical cutterhead with carbide inserts (and smoother cuts), and 33% extra width to work with. Who said life was easy? The Wahuda is the best benchtop jointer with a spiral cutterhead. Click here for info and updated prices.

Jet JJP-8BT 8-inch jointer-planer combo review

This Jet model is the only benchtop jointer planer combo on the market. In other words, buying this machine gives you double functionality for a similar price point of all the other machines available in the market.

If you watch YouTube videos from European makers, you will probably have seen similar machines in their tighter woodshops. Most of these machines have similar designs, where some simple dust port adjustments allow you to switch between jointer and planer in under a minute.

This is a basic machine. Its main differential from other competitors is having all the functionality you need for jointing and planning lumber to your needs using half as much space. It is one of the best choices for small workshops with tighter budgets because it allows you to be fully functional from day one. The Jet benchtop jointer-planer combo is great for small shops. Click here for info and prices.

Delta 37-071 review

This Delta benchtop jointer certainly offers you stability. At 76 lbs, this is one of the heaviest machines reviewed here today, so it’s unlikely this unit will move around while you are jointing board on it. The weight also helps reduce machine vibration.

Part of the weight is due to its cast iron construction, much more solid, stable, and durable than the aluminum that you often see in this category.

As with most benchtop models, this jointer uses straight knives. It’s not a deal breaker because the lower price reflects that, however you need to be aware that finishing your boards will likely take longer, since straight knives mark the lumber a bit more than spiral cutterheads.

Swapping the knives is simple due to its jackscrew arrangement.

The fence needs some time to be setup. Once you get it there, though, it is very stable and precise.

The built-in dust blower takes care of most wood shavings, however you will be better off by hooking it up to your dust collection system to avoid clogging the dust chute.

The Delta 37-071 jointer is a great choice for the hobby woodworker who wants a substantial machine for a reasonable price. The cast iron construction benefits certainly make a good cause for this unit. Click here for info and prices on the Delta.

Powertec BJ600 review

The Powertec jointer has many similar features to the above Delta 37-071, namely cast iron construction (including the fence, unlike other benchtop machines) resulting in bulky weight, less machine vibration, more solidity, stability, and durability.

This machine will not move while you are jointing lumber! They could be a good entrance model if you do woodworking as a hobby. The dust collection bag captures wood shavings, which could be convenient is you don’t have a dust collection system in your shop.

The Powertec is much cheaper than the Delta. But there’s a catch.

Adjusting the infeed and the outfeed tables in the Powertec demands some tinkering, which is not described in the user’s manual. You will also need a pair of 6-inch Allen wrenches in 3 and 5 mm, which are not shipped with this machine. The screws are easy to find under the machine, so accessibility isn’t an issue.

Oddly, not all machines have these issues, so it looks like a quality control issue more than anything. Take that as you will.

If you are patient enough to sort these issues with the Powertec, you can count on having a dependable workhorse in your home woodshop for a fraction of the price of the Delta. Click here to see prices for the Powertec BJ600.

Wen 6560 6-inch benchtop jointer review

This Wen 6560 is an honest hobby benchtop jointer, plus it is one of the cheapest benchtop jointers currently available at the market. As per user reviews, the fence adjustment is the main negative side of this unit.

My main issue with the Wen is that it’s just so… average. While it is one of the cheapest currently for sale, and all its specs are on par with the competition, I have a hard time recommending this Wen jointer to anyone.

Get a Porter-Cable with variable speed control or a Powertec BJ600 with a dust bag, they cost around the same but offer something extra for your money.

What does a jointer do?

Contrary to its name, a jointer doesn’t make joints; it planes the edges of boards. Don’t confuse it with a thickness planer, which dimensions rough lumber to exact thickness, but doesn’t do much else.

The jointer is more versatile. It’s designed for accurate edge-planing of boards you’re gluing together into larger boards such as for cabinets or table-tops, but you’ll also use it to:

• straighten one edge of a curved board so it follows the table saw fence as you cut it to width;
• remove saw marks on the edges of a board cut on the table saw;
• flatten warped board faces;
• smooth edges of plywood, particle-board and Plexiglas;
• micro-plane cabinet door edges to get an exact fit;
• bevel door and board edges;
• clean up glue joints on laminated boards for lathe turning; and
• trim fractions of stock from door or window molding when remodeling.

How does a jointer work?

The jointer’s cutter head spins between a two-part infeed-outfeed table. The tips of the blades in the cutter head are set level with the stationary outfeed table surface.

As the board passes through the blades, its just-planed edge rides across the outfeed table.

The infeed table adjusts up and down to determine the depth of cut; the fence positions the board at a preset angle to the jointer table and cutter head.

A jointer with its infeed table set at 1/32 in. will remove 1/32 in. all along a flat board edge. The new edge will be the same angle to the board face as the fence is to the jointer bed.

Benchtop jointer vs stationary tool

I do woodworking as a hobby and I want to take it up a notch. I recently decided my next tool purchase will be a jointer. My main issue is dealing with a very small shop, so I want something compact.

A benchtop jointer is great for beginner or hobbyist woodworkers. Even for professionals in smaller shops. If your woodworking consists of smaller to medium items, you can rely on 6- or 8-inch jointers. They will accurately true smaller or shorter stock, say up to 4 feet or so.

Benchtop jointers are faster than hand planing. They are much simpler than setting up jigs to process rough lumber on your router table or table saw.

They are also cheaper than buying S4S lumber (all faces and edges smooth). Jointers give you more flexibility in species, lumber dimensions, and even wood figure. Keep on reading as I expand these arguments in my article.

Unexpected benefits of working with rough lumber

Working with rough lumber gives you so much versatility.

First of all, it allows you to use other wood species. Beginners tend to use only the lumber selection available at their local home center.

Second, the home center also limits you in lumber thickness and project dimensions. So you can’t design a project with good proportions.

Third, you will be able to work with different wood figures and grain and incorporate those in your design. This unlocks extra possibilities for your woodworking skills and projects. Other than joinery techniques, the wood itself will add beauty to your work.

You can go to different places to find cheaper or free lumber for milling. You can go to lumberyards and getting to know experienced people who can teach you more about wood. You can search for rough lumber ads on eBay. You can even posting ads on Craigslist for searching fallen trees and mill them yourself.

Alternatives for owning a benchtop jointer

You can buy a bigger machine, you can joint boards by hand, or you can buy pre-surfaced boards. Two of these make you spend more money, and two of these make you spend more time.

1. Buying a bigger machine will give you extra capacity, a bigger motor, and more stability. A stationary jointer also costs you more.
2. Jointing boards by hand gives you, well, nice wood shavings... Right? It's also a time-consuming method. A power tool gives more accurate, much faster results. Unless you are allergic to electricity, it doesn't make much sense to rely on hand planing in place of a jointer.
3. Buying S4S pre-surfaced boards is the worst of both worlds. After you leave them to acclimate to your shop's humidity and temperature, your lumber is no longer flat. You pay more for the pre-surfaced lumber convenience, but then you need to re-surface them again. The only warranty you have when buying S4S is that you spend more money. You will have to mill your stock at your shop because the boards will still be not perfect.

How to choose a jointer (buying guide)

Table width = cutting capacity

This measurement is the maximum lumber width the jointer can handle.

• 6 inches: this is the smallest jointer you can buy and it fits most budgets. It is best suited for hobby woodworkers and some contractors too, due to its portability.
• 8 inches: moving up a step in size, 8” jointers give you more flexibility because you can joint wider boards, and in general also allow you to work with longer lumber because they have longer tables and are heavier, more stable machines.
• 16 inches: these are professional work platforms, suited for large, industrial workshops that need it for daily use.

Infeed and outfeed table length

As a rule of thumb, you can comfortably handle wood that is twice as long as the jointer’s table length. You can buy of make table extensions for occasional work with longer lumber.

Tip: Table alignment is one of the two most important things for accurate and dependable results.

Adjustable fence

Most fences can be set with positive stops at 45°, 90°, and 135°, and also any angle in between. The vast majority of your jointing, though, will happen at 90°.

Tip: An accurate fence is the other vital element for ensuring accurate work results, and you ensure it with proper fence control.

Cutting depth

The smaller this figure is, the more passes you will need to make in order to straighten your lumber.

In other words, this is what defines your work efficiency.

Motor

Most motors use standard 110v, single phase outlets.

Some jointers, however, allow rewiring to 220v, single-phase.

Dust collection

Do not underestimate the amount of dust and wood shavings jointers make during operation.

I strongly believe that keeping a clean shop means keeping a safe shop. Make sure your chosen jointer is compatible with your current dust management system.

Dimensions and weight

Only you can answer these questions based on your own needs and circumstances.

• How much space do you have available in your shop?
• Can you buy a jointer with a fixed base?
• Would you rather build your own cabinet and use that as storage space?

Cutterhead type

• Straight Knives: this is the most common cutter type. The cutters spin on a vertical axis along the jointer width and are usually made of solid steel.
• Spiral Knives: spiral designs are more advanced in terms of technology. Here the knives spin as they cut into the wood. This design allows for (relatively) more silent operation, as well as less blade sharpening. Wood shavings are smaller too.
• Spiral Inserts: lately, some manufacturers such as Wahuda offer a spiral design version where they place several inserts – usually 12 inserts for 6-inch benchtop planers to 16 inserts for 8-inch models.

Why are helical cutters BETTER than straight knives?

• MUCH lower noise levels - think garbage disposal (80 dB) versus lawn mower (90 dB)
• Carbide cutters stay sharp for a longer time, saving downtime and sharpening costs
• Possibility to rotate or change just the damaged cutters instead of changing the entire knife
• Smaller wood chips versus the long wood shavings produced by straight knives (especially soft woods). They clog up dust collection more often

Number of knives/inserts and cuts per minute (CPM)

Simply put, the more knives/inserts a machine has, the more cuts per minute it will make, and the smoother the end result will be.

On the other hand, the higher cuts per minute figures also tend to result in a higher need for re-sharpening the jointer knives.

Jointer vs. thickness planer

Both machines operate in similar ways to remove material, creating straight and smooth surfaces, however they perform different operations.

• A jointer will first straighten one face and one edge, while also making them square to each other. This is the most important difference to the jointer because it creates the initial references on your stock.
• A thickness planer is used afterwards to make the opposite face and edge parallel with the previous surfaces, thus finishing to square your lumber. You can also use it for creating uniform thickness in all your lumber before moving on with your project, which is an added convenience.

Ideally you should own both machines. In real life, they both cost money, which is a finite resource.

If you are in doubt of which purchase you should prioritize, absolutely go for jointers first because their ability to square stock is much more important than the convenience of having wood planed to a consistent thickness.

Also consider that some manufacturers offer the convenience of combination machines for jointing and planing stock. This is always an interesting choice for smaller shops and tighter budgets.

How to use a jointer?

Tips for operating a jointer

Benchtop jointers are precision tools only as precise as their operator. Keep in mind:

• A row of set screws holds each blade in the cutter head. Check them regularly for tightness with an Allen wrench.
• Set the cutting depth at 1/16 in. or less on the inked table before turning on the jointer. If you're planing hardwood, experiment with even shallower cuts to get a smoother board edge and to reduce blade wear and tear.
• To joint a board edge, grip the board in both hands and push it toward the cutter head, keeping firm pressure downward on the infeed table and sideways along the fence. Cut with the grain when possible, but the jointer smoothly trims edges when cutting against the grain if you don't rush the cut. Maintain an even feed rate. Don't stop the cut partway through or you'll create "divots" along the cut. When finishing the cut, keep pressure steady on the end of the board to keep it firmly on the outfeed table.
• When jointing shorter boards (3 to 4 ft. long) keep your hands in the same position throughout the cut. Longer boards require repositioning your hands to keep pressure consistently downward and against the fence.
• Don't joint boards shorter than 12 in. long. Joint longer boards and cut them to length later.
• Reposition the fence frequently when jointing boards to distribute wear on the blades.
• To straighten a curved edge, joint several inches from one end, then, as you hear the blades losing contact with the cupped edge, lift the board and joint the other end. After a few rotations, the curve will be removed.

Safety tips for jointing stock

• Jointers may seem harmless because it runs quietly, but be careful. Never remove the swiveling blade guard. Always use it. No excuses allowed here.
• Jointing stock with knots or other defects increases your chances of accidents.
• Keep your fingers away from the revolving cutter head.
• Always joint with the grain.
• Don't attempt to surface pieces shorter that 12 inches.
• The maximum depth of cut should be 1/8 inch.
• Always use a push block when surface jointing or jointing a thin piece of stock.
• Always stand to the left of the machine and behind the cutter head.
• Make sure stock is always held firmly against the fence.
• Check the machine to ensure all parts are securely tightened.
• Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
• Don't wear loose clothing. Roll up long sleeves and keep shirt tails tucked in.

Checking your jointer results

Place two boards you’ve jointed edge-to-edge. When jointers work right, they cut straight, 90-degree edges. These edges match perfectly with other jointed boards.

If it’s not working right, there will be gaps. Two adjustments might be necessary:

• Set the fence to 90 degrees with a small square, being sure to check the fence all along its face.
• Hold a straightedge firmly on the out-feed table to make sure the tables are parallel. If not, the outfeed table needs adjustment. Many jointers have "gibs" (adjustment screws) at the base of the outfeed table for leveling purposes. After adjusting, recheck the beds with the straightedge.

Don’t fret if the jointer’s beds go slightly out of level with use. Simply take the time to check and adjust them. Don’t leave heavy boards or tools lying on the tables because it’ll encourage their misalignment

Sources

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer
• https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157045-S4S-Wood-vs-Self-Planed-amp-Jointed/page2
• https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/39274
• https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/67js6v/good_benchtop_jointers/